Hardware Hacking – Blog. by Next Thing https://ntcblogbackup.wpengine.com News & Notes. Process & Projects. No BS. Srsly. Thu, 09 Nov 2017 03:16:07 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.9.5 Here’s Exactly How to Hack a Bigger Screen onto PocketC.H.I.P. https://ntcblogbackup.wpengine.com/heres-exactly-how-to-hack-a-bigger-screen-onto-pocketc-h-i-p/ https://ntcblogbackup.wpengine.com/heres-exactly-how-to-hack-a-bigger-screen-onto-pocketc-h-i-p/#comments Thu, 22 Sep 2016 17:47:35 +0000 http://blog.nextthing.co/?p=1033 Tony showing off his hacked PocketC.H.I.P.

Tony showing off his hacked PocketC.H.I.P. with larger screen

Resourceful Pocketeers on the forums have banded together to figure out how to swap out the stock LCD screen on PocketC.H.I.P. for an even bigger, 5″ LCD capable of rendering at 800×480 pixels.

MarekLew was the first to connect the bigger screen to PocketC.H.I.P. and share the news in the forum. Kilrah completed the hack soon after and shared some great photos of the screen swap process. And cmspooner’s post explained how to calibrate the touchscreen using a config file.

This post synthesizes the information from the three threads into one easy-to-deploy configuration file. Plus, having everything in a config file means that even if you reboot PocketC.H.I.P., the settings with remain in effect.

Parts

Tools

  • Paperclip (or jumper wire)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Putty knife
  • Scissors
  • Wireless USB keyboard & mouse combo

There’s no sense in rushing through this project. LCD panels are fragile and can be easily broken. Take your time. Have fun. Hack at your own risk. And ask any questions you have in the forums or comments below.


1. Disassemble PocketC.H.I.P.

Exploded view of PocketC.H.I.P.

Exploded view of PocketC.H.I.P.

Turn off PocketC.H.I.P. and remove the plastic around the perimeter of the screen. Flip PocketC.H.I.P. over, remove C.H.I.P., as well as the back of the PocketC.H.I.P. case.

Note: Currently this hack only works with the C.H.I.P. software image.


2. Disconnect the Battery

Unplug the battery BEFORE you solder!

Unplug the battery before you hack the screen!

Use needle-nose pliers and disconnect the battery. Make sure to only pull on the plastic JST-connector, not on the wires.

With the wires disconnected, carefully pull the battery away from the adhesive tape connecting it to PocketC.H.I.P.. Don’t try to pull off the battery in one big tug. Be patient and slowly work each side of the battery free from the tape.


3. Disconnect the LCD FPC Cable

Removing the LCD FPC Cable

Removing the LCD FPC Cable

With the battery out of the way, you can now access the LCD flexible printed circuit (FPC) connector. Gently pull the dark plastic portion of the connector toward the cable.

When the connector is loosened, simply pull the cable out of the connector. Avoid sticking the FPC cable to the exposed sticky foam, it can be a pain to separate.


4. Remove the LCD

Removing the LCD

Remember, don’t cut the LCD FPC cable!

It is fairly easy to crack the LCD and cut the FPC cable during removal. Be patient and take your time. Use a putty knife to slowly work your way around the perimeter of the LCD, cutting and gentle prying the adhesive foam between PocketC.H.I.P. and the LCD.

Once the adhesive foam no longer has its hold on the LCD, remove the screen and FPC cable from PocketC.H.I.P. and set aside.


5. Connect the New LCD’s FPC Cable

Connecting the New FPC Cable

Connecting the New FPC Cable

Place the new LCD viewing-side down on a non-marking surface. Carefully bend the LCD FPC cable and slide it through the slot in the middle of PocketC.H.I.P..

Make sure that the FPC connector is in the open position and slide the FPC cable into it. (This is shown in the image above.) When you feel resistance from the connector, push the two parts of the connector together to secure the connection.


6. Adhere Kapton & Foam Tape to PocketC.H.I.P.

Apply Double-sided Tape

Use at least four pieces of foam tape!

Use Kapton tape to cover any exposed solder pads that might contact the new, larger LCD. The tape is visible in the image above in maize. Shorting shouldn’t be a problem, but it’s a good habit to proactively use the tape.

Cut at least four strips of foam tape and adhere them to PocketC.H.I.P.. Use the pink rectangular outline on the silkscreen as a placement guide. The key is to apply enough tape that it supports the display when you press it. If you don’t, the LCD will bend and you’ll see a distorted display.


7. Affix the LCD to PocketC.H.I.P.

Affix the LCD to PocketC.H.I.P.

For best results, use a steady hand!

Take your time with this step. Use the tab slots above PocketC.H.I.P.’s keyboard to help you align the screen. Make sure you don’t cover up the exposed solder pads for the GPIO at the top of PocketC.H.I.P.. The screen will overhang the PocketC.H.I.P. on either side of the PCB.

Once you place the screen down on the foam tape, there’s very little wiggle room to change the orientation. Use a steady hand.


8. Reconnect the Battery & Case

Reconnect the battery

Place the battery back on the foam tape you removed it from in Step 3. Use the pink battery outline on PocketC.H.I.P. to help you orient the battery placement.

Once the battery is secure, reconnect the battery’s JST-connector to PocketC.H.I.P. and attach the back of the case.

Note: Due to the larger screen size, the old bezel will not fit.


9. Flash C.H.I.P. & Configure the Software

PocketC.H.I.P. with a 5" LCD running vim-gtk and htop

PocketC.H.I.P. with a 5″ LCD running vim-gtk and htop

Flash C.H.I.P. using the online flasher. It’s counterintuitive, but don’t use a PocketC.H.I.P. image for this project. Currently only the C.H.I.P. 4.4 GUI and the C.H.I.P. 4.4 GUI No Limit images support this hack.

Once the flashing is done, put C.H.I.P. back into PocketC.H.I.P.. Attach a USB keyboard and mouse dongle to PocketC.H.I.P. and power it on. The display will illuminate and you’ll see a distorted, double image. This is because PocketC.H.I.P. is using the 480×272 resolution config file. Though the screen looks funky, the wireless mouse and keyboard will work as you’d expect.

Connect PocketC.H.I.P. to your home network and then open the Terminal application.

Note: If you’re new to the C.H.I.P. image, consult the docs for help with WiFi setup.

Download the config file and save it as xorg.conf.
wget -O xorg.conf http://bit.ly/2cpG2xV

Copy the file to /etc/X11/xorg.conf.
sudo cp ./xorg.conf /etc/X11/xorg.conf

Restart lightdm to reload X11 and utilize the new configuration file.
sudo systemctl restart lightdm

That’s it. Now your PocketC.H.I.P. will work with the larger screen size and all the settings will last even if you reboot the device.


chipLogo64x64

However you decide to use the larger resolution on your PocketC.H.I.P., be sure to share it with the community. Post in the forum, share screenshots on Twitter, or mention your favorite application in the comments below. Happy hacking!

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Modify PocketC.H.I.P. with These 4 Hardware Hacks https://ntcblogbackup.wpengine.com/modify-pocketc-h-i-p-with-these-4-hardware-hacks/ Tue, 28 Jun 2016 17:11:33 +0000 http://blog.nextthing.co/?p=697 3D Printable D-Pad makes gaming more comfy

3D Printable D-Pad makes gaming more comfy

Over the weekend there was a flurry of PocketC.H.I.P. hardware hacks on social media. From keyboard modding to building a secret stylus holder to soldering in a microSD card reader, people are taking the PocketC.H.I.P. hardware and customizing it to be their own.

The best place to spot new hacks in the wild or show off your own is over on our forums. It’s a great place to meet fellow Pocketeers, ask questions, and learn from others. Now onto the hardware hacks.

Game in Classic NES Style with This Custom D-pad Hack

NTC’s in-house hacker extraordinaire, Andrew Langley, decided he wanted a more traditional D-pad for PocketC.H.I.P.. The custom button he made consists of two 3D printable parts that snap together and attach to PocketC.H.I.P.. The bezel –shown above in teal– fits around the screen and holds the D-pad securely in place. The D-pad –in red– rests inside the bezel and contacts the direction keys. No glue or screws required for this mod!

Fun fact, this arrangement of keys has been around since at least the Atari joystick. But the plus-shape button found on PocketC.H.I.P. wasn’t made popular until Gunpei Yokoi’s used the design on the Nintendo Donkey Kong Game & Watch in the early 1980s.

Langley’s 3D files are open source and available for download on Thingiverse and GitHub. You’ll need a 3D printer and about 1.5 hours to complete the print. If you don’t have access to a 3D printer, see if there’s a local hackerspace or look into one of the many online printing services.


Total Keyboard Overhaul

fullcase

Nicholas Anthony is ambitious. He didn’t just change a few keys, Anthony created a bezel-keyboard combination that covers every single key. Currently the file for this design are unavailable, but that appears to be because Anthony is tweaking his design and working on a second version.

IMG_1025

We were lucky enough to snag the files and print one in the office. Keep an eye on Anthony’s project in this forum thread for updates.


Carry Your Stylus in Style

stylushack

Because PocketC.H.I.P.’s touch screen is resistive, some folks prefer the use of a stylus to their finger –especially if their fingers are on the larger side like mine.

Levi Wilson, Levi5885 on the forums, took the next step and modified his PocketC.H.I.P. to include a holder for his stylus. While there are no exact steps, feel free to join the thread and ask him about the build. It’s great if you want to have a stylus at the ready and wisely keeps the ‘hidden’ prototyping area free for future hacks, like adding a speaker or microSD card reader.


Expand the Built-in Storage with a MicroSD Reader

sdhack2

Keith’s MicroSD reader hack fits nicely inside the PocketC.H.I.P. enclosure

Adding extra storage to PocketC.H.I.P. is something people have typically done by attaching a USB thumbdrive. Keith, d4rkc00d3r, wanted something a bit more permanent. He soldered a micoSD card module to the inside of PocketC.H.I.P. and wired it to the SPI bus exposed at the top of PocketC.H.I.P.. The hack takes advantage of the prototyping area inside PocketC.H.I.P. and since it uses the SPI pins, but keeps the USB port available for other accessories.

jose-hack

Jose’s mod uses super-tiny wires and requires a steady hand to install

Jose, a Hardware Engineer at NTC, also added a microSD card reader to his PocketC.H.I.P., though his approach was to keep all the wires inside PocketC.H.I.P. and solder wires to the side of the header pins where C.H.I.P. attaches.

In order for either of these hardware hacks to work, a modified version of the Linux kernel with SPI support is required. Jose is working on a custom kernel for his build, but it’s unclear from the forum post if Keith has tackled the software side yet. Stay tuned to the forum thread for more developments on both projects.


Regardless of how you modify your PocketC.H.I.P., we want to see your hacks! Send us a tweet, share your full project on our forums, or even enter it into the Hackster.io C.H.I.P. section.

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Add a Speaker to PocketC.H.I.P. in Less Than 20 Minutes https://ntcblogbackup.wpengine.com/add-a-speaker-to-pocketc-h-i-p-in-less-than-20-minutes/ https://ntcblogbackup.wpengine.com/add-a-speaker-to-pocketc-h-i-p-in-less-than-20-minutes/#comments Wed, 08 Jun 2016 20:36:22 +0000 http://blog.nextthing.co/?p=612

Adding a speaker to PocketC.H.I.P. is a great way to start extending its hardware. Jose, one of the NTC electrical engineers, completed the hack in about 5 minutes and got everyone in the office excited about adding a speaker to their PocketC.H.I.P.s.

Modifying a new computer with custom circuitry and solder might seem intimidating or risky, but this project is accessible to everyone. Parts cost around $5.00 and should take about 30 minutes to build if you’re a beginner. If you get stuck or have questions, make sure to post them in our forums and be as detailed as possible.


Parts

Pre-cut wire wrap is super handy!

Pre-cut wire wrap is super handy!

All of the parts used in this project are fairly easy to source, but below you’ll find direct links to what we used in the project.

  • 30AWG wire, often called “wire wrap.” Wire wrap comes in spools and pre-cut lengths. While buying a spool may seem like a more cost effective purchase, cutting and stripping these tiny gauge wires can be difficult. If you don’t want to buy an expensive wire stripper, buying pre-cut lengths of wire wrap wire is a decent alternative. Here’s another source.
  • 8Ω speaker – since the speaker needs to fit inside the PocketC.H.I.P. enclosurer, look for a small diameter speaker ~23mm.
  • 3W Amplifier – Jose suggests using this 3W amplifier to keep things simple.
  • Kapton tape – if you don’t have kapton tape, masking tape or electrical tape are decent replacements for this application.

Tools

  • Soldering iron & lead free solder
  • Hot glue gun & glue
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Tweezers
  • Wire cutters
  • Wire stripper – you’ll need a good pair to strip 30 AWG wire wrap wire. An alternative is to buy pre-cut lengths of wire wrap. See the parts section for a recommendation.

1. Prepare PocketC.H.I.P.

exploded

Make sure that PocketC.H.I.P. is turned off, then carefully remove C.H.I.P. from PocketC.H.I.P.. Flip PocketC.H.I.P. around and remove the plastic frame that surrounds the perimeter of the screen. Finally, remove the back of the case by pressing the tabs above the screen and on either side of the Home/Power button.

Note: If this is your first time using PocketC.H.I.P., you will find the docs a helpful, handy resource.


2. Disconnect the Battery

Unplug the battery BEFORE you solder!

Unplug the battery BEFORE you solder!

Place PocketC.H.I.P. screen-down on a non-marking surface and locate the battery connector on the left side of the board.

Grip the white plastic JST connector with needle nose pliers and gently pull away from the off-white connector that’s soldered to the board.

Warning! Pull on the plastic connectors, not on the wires!


3. Protect Exposed PocketC.H.I.P. Electronics

Tape to the rescue!

Tape to the rescue!

Cut a small length of Kapton tape and adhere it over the components on the left side of PocketC.H.I.P.. This is done to prevent electrical shorting between exposed solder pads on PocketC.H.I.P. and the amplifier.

Note: If you don’t want to buy an entire roll of Kapton tape, masking tape or electrical tape are decent replacements –at least for this application. Do not use duct tape.


4. Hot Glue the Amp to PocketC.H.I.P.

Glue first, then solder.

Glue first, then solder.

Test fit the amplifier without glue first. Orient the amplifier so that it’s near the components you just taped over, but leave some room away from PocketC.H.I.P.’s edge to provide clearance for the case to close snugly. Also make sure that the audio input pads are located closer to the PocketC.H.I.P. header pins –see the image above.

Once you’ve determined the proper placement, put a blob of hot glue on the underside of of the amplifier and press it into PocketC.H.I.P..


5. Solder Power & Ground Between PocketC.H.I.P. & the Amp

Use tweezers and save time.

Use tweezers and save time.

We recommend soldering wires to the side of PocketC.H.I.P.’s male header pin and below the plastic shroud. This ensures that C.H.I.P. will connect to PocketC.H.I.P. without wire obstructions.

Solder the GND pad on PocketC.H.I.P. to the – pad near the 5V pad on the amplifier.

Next, solder the VCC-5V pad on PocketC.H.I.P. to the 5V + pad on the amplifier.

Note: If you’ve never soldered before, check out this helpful soldering comic book.

Wiring the AMP

Power and Ground Soldered between PocketC.H.I.P. and the AMP


6. Solder Audio Lines Between PocketC.H.I.P. & the Amp

  • Solder the PocketC.H.I.P. HPL pad to the amplifier’s L pin.
  • Solder the PocketC.H.I.P. HPCOM pad to the  pin.
  • Solder the PocketC.H.I.P. HPR pad to the amp’s R pin.

Once that’s done, all that’s left is to solder the speaker to the amp.

IMG_0852

This photo shows a work in progress. The Amp’s R pin still needs to be wired to HPR on PocketC.H.I.P..


7. Solder the Speaker to the Amplifier

Glue only the edges of the speaker!

Glue only the edges of the speaker!

Connect the speaker to the amplifier using two more wires. Remember you’ll need to shove all the wire inside the PocketC.H.I.P. enclosure, so don’t use more wire than you absolutely need.

Note: A trick we figured out while writing this project is that it’s much easier to glue the speaker in place before you attempt to solder to the speaker.

Solder the amplifier R- pad to the speaker terminal marked with a and the amplifier R+ pad to the other terminal. Of course, if you want to have stereo sound, you’ll need to wire up a second speaker and attach it to the L+ and L- pads on the amp.

At this point, go ahead and reattach the front and back of the enclosure and insert C.H.I.P. into the back of PocketC.H.I.P..

All wired up!

All wired up!


8. Volume Control

Once you’ve reassembled the enclosure, power on PocketC.H.I.P. and test out your speaker by running PICO-8. You should hear 8-bit audio as soon as you load PICO-8. To adjust the volume, go to the settings menu from the home screen and move the volume slider to the desired output level.

bright

If you want to use headphones with PocketC.H.I.P. and not have audio playback over the speaker, open the Terminal application on the homescreen. Then type in alsamixer and press enter. You’ll see a screen, like the one shown below.

Use ALSA mixer to toggle the speaker on and off.

Use ALSA mixer to toggle the speaker on and off.

Use the arrow keys and select Left Mix and press the m button on your keyboard. This will toggle the speaker off. To enable the speaker output, follow the same method you used to mute the speaker. To exit alsamixer, simply press the ESC key.


This is only the second of many PocketC.H.I.P. hardware hacks (remember PockulusC.H.I.P.). Make sure your hardware hacking plans for PocketC.H.I.P. over on the forum. We can’t wait. Happy hardware hacking!

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